The Anatomy of a Suit Jacket
Here at Sunny Bank Mills we made some of the finest worsted cloth in the world. But what happened to it next? This cloth was destined for the tailors of Savile Row, Italy, Miami and their finest counterparts across the globe. Our collection includes a number of very different jackets created from our cloth, each one a jigsaw of many different parts, carefully fitted together by the tailor to create the framework of the jacket.
This framework and the jacket’s overall silhouette around the torso define the suit jacket’s body and ultimately the jacket’s fit, drape, and cut. This is one of the suits in our Collection, made of the finest cloth we produced at the time.
Lapels: Lapels are the folded fabric from the collar to the top button of the suit jacket. They come in different styles such as notch, peak, and shawl, each adding a distinct character to the jacket’s overall appearance. As well as the style of lapel, the size of lapels also plays its part and differing shapes and styles of lapel have been prevalent throughout history.
Notch: The notch is a cut-out where the lapel meets the collar. The notch on a suit jacket, also known as the notch lapel, is a specific design feature where the lapel and collar meet at an angle, creating a “notch.” The notch is typically cut at a 75 to 90-degree angle. The size and depth of the notch can vary, influencing the jacket’s overall aesthetic. A higher, narrower notch is often seen on more modern, slim-fit jackets, while a wider, lower notch can give a more traditional appearance.
Shoulder: The shoulder part of the jacket covers the shoulders and is crucial for the fit and silhouette of the suit.
Sleeve: The sleeves extend from the shoulder to the wrist and should fit comfortably, allowing for easy movement without being too loose.
Cuff: The cuff is the end part of the sleeve. It can feature buttons and is designed to show a small portion of the shirt cuff underneath.
Chest Pocket: Located on the upper left side of the jacket, the chest pocket is traditionally used for decorative purposes, often holding a pocket square.
Buttons & Buttonholes: Buttons are the fasteners used to close the front of the jacket. Buttonholes are the holes where the buttons go through and are typically reinforced to withstand wear and tear. The number of buttons varies according to the style of the suit. A single breasted suit typically has one, two, or three buttons in a single vertical row, whilst a double breasted suit features two vertical rows of buttons, typically with four, six, or eight buttons in total, but usually only two or three are functional.
Flap Pockets: This is the most common type of suit jacket pocket, consisting of a pocket with a rectangular flap that covers the opening on both sides of the jacket front. The flap can be tucked inside the pocket for a different look.
Chest Darts: Chest darts are the vertical lines on the front panel of the suit jacket. These darts might appear decorative but help in the jacket drape by taking in some fabric to create a tapering contour.
Jacket Quarters: The quarters of a jacket refer to the lower front sections of a suit jacket or blazer, below the buttons. The way the quarters are cut can significantly affect the overall look and style of the jacket. Jacket quarters can be open, closed or straight.
Vents: Suit vents refer to the vertical cut at the lower back of the suit jacket which help to maintain the jackets silhouette and drape whilst sitting and prevent the jacket from ‘rumbling’ . A suit jacket can have single, double, or no vents, but double vent suit jackets are the most prevalent style.
As well as this formal pinstripe suit we have a number of more casual checked and tweed jackets in our Collection. Suits You Sir!
Tags
General